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Feisty Chef

Chef, Mother, Crazy Cheese Lover

August 25, 2009

Gone Fishin'

by Renee Lavallee in Events, Favorites


I remember my first fishing trip; I was eleven years old and my dad decided to take me on the "annual" fishing trip after making much commotion about not being able to go, as I was a girl. Well, off we went on a Friday night (my brother came too) to a lake that was pristine, but also three hours away with a house that had no heat or plumbing! My adventure left much to be desired; I spent the weekend complaining about the cold and the rampant smell of farts that was coming from my brother (yes, I got my first taste of the "Dutch Oven" on this trip!). That was the last time that I attempted to fish. Many years later while living in the British Virgin Islands, I took up fishing again and enjoyed it! Perhaps it was because it was hot, and my brother was nowhere in sight. I mostly caught small, tropical fish that I didn't want to eat, but my love affair had been sparked.

When I met my husband, one of my qualities that I told him about was my ability to fish; so as a Valentine's gift, he got me a fishing rod. I have yet to use the rod (I always forget to bring with me), but when we went to Cape Breton a while back, he asked me if I would like to go mackerel fishing. Well, of course I did, and off we went on a sunny Saturday afternoon. Our hosts offered me a rod, but I opted to fish with a traditional hand line, something that I had never done before. Fun! Here I was, off the coast of Cape Breton, fishin'. Doug had never seen me in action, and I think he was slightly skeptical as to whether I not I could actually a fish. A few minutes later, my jigging payed off and I caught 5, count em', 5 mackerel! I took them off the line and dropped into a bucket for grilling later.

I don't have a specific recipe for these bejeweled beauties; we usually clean them, then grill them with olive oil, salt and pepper. Some people find the flavour to be too strong, but I find dipping the grilled flesh in some citrus aioli to be the perfect balance! Pair this with a crisp white wine, such as a l'Acadie Blanc, and you are off to the races.

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TAGS: Cape Breton, seafood, mackerel


August 8, 2009

Brewnosers, This One's For You!

by Renee Lavallee in Events


Don't get me wrong; I find beer bellies very attractive, and there were plenty to be seen at the Halifax Seaport Beerfest. I grew up in small town Quebec, and my first drink of beer was actually a Guinness that was purchased for me by my older sister, Geneviève. I then became a regular consumer of Labbatt 50 (Brewnoser, don't laugh or think less of me). I could always be found on a Friday night with a quart of 50 by my side, and another chillin' on ice at the fire pit. Since then my beer "buds"" have changed, although, I'll admit to buying a case of 50 every time I go home.

These days, I am a fan of the microbreweries here in Halifax; Propeller, Garrison, Granite Brewery. Today I had the pleasure of being asked to join the media tour at the Seaport Beeerfest, led by Christine White, of Taste Of Nova Scotia, and had the opportunity to sample a bevy of beauties before the hordes of people arrived. Our first stop was at the Q104 booth where Garrison had specially made a beer called Q-Brew; very nice! We then hit up Propeller (I had the Pilsner; one of my favorites), then to Garrison, Rudder's Pub (based out of Yarmouth), and then some crisp Stutz Cider crafted by Hanspeter  at Grand Pré Winery. After the media tour, I was left to my own devices and sampled about twenty or so beers. My favorites included the "Paienne" from Brasserie Dieu Du Ciel (Thanks Jeff for the recommendation!); the Mill St. "Wit" and of course the two ciders from Stutz and Tideview. So, with beer goggles starting to appear before my eyes, we made a mad dash for the ferry back over Dartmouth to talk about the great beers we had tried, and those we wished we had not.

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TAGS: Garrison, beer, Halifax Seaport Beer Festival, Propeller Beer, Taste of Nova Scotia


July 30, 2009

If You're Fond Of Sand Dunes & Salty Air

by Renee Lavallee in Events, Recipes


I have been living on the East coast for about six years. One of the best things about living here is waking up to the smell of the salt in the air on a misty morning. It makes me think of sand dunes, waves and believe it or not, clams! I recently had the pleasure of being invited to Pictou by my friend, Nick, who also happens to be a fish supplier. His father, Paul, aka "Chip", happens to be the mastermind behind the Black Point clams and oysters that I am so very fond of. So off we set on a rainy Friday afternoon to spend the weekend on the Northumberland Shore with this "fishy" family. I had visions of me in a bikini with a snorkel and a mesh bag, diving in the warm, salty water; clams, oysters and bay scallops a bounty! To my dismay, Mother Nature decided to rain on my parade, and instead I was only able to walk down to the water's edge and hand pick these beauties out of baskets. Oh well, at least they were in the water, and I didn't have to scare anybody with the sight of me in a bikini and snorkel! Luckily enough when the weather let up, Paul and his wife took us on their boat and gave us a tour of one of their nearby "bottom leases". It was amazing for us to see all that went into the production of these delicious mollusks.

My favorite recipe for the Black Point clams is to simply grill them until they open and then toss them with a little "salsa verde" or depending on the time of year, "nasturtium butter". Seeing as the nasturtiums are bountiful in my yard right now, I'll pass along my recipe for the butter. Enjoy.

Nasturtium Butter

  • 1 lb salted & softened butter
  • 2 cups nasturtium flowers
  • 1 cup nasturtium leaves
  • 3 lemons; zest and juice of two
  • 1/4 cup cracked black pepper

In a food processor, soften the butter. Once very soft, add the rest of the ingredients. Make sure not to process too much or you will end up with "green" paste instead of the "speckled" effect.

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TAGS: nasturtium flower, clams, black point oysters, bay scallops


July 23, 2009

Kunjip In Koreatown - NYC Day 3

by Renee Lavallee in Events


Our third day in New York started off fairly regularly for a Saturday; coffee, bagel and Farmers' market. It was what we ate on this day that made us realize that we were not in Halifax anymore! Doug decided that he wanted us to get off the beaten path and try something different, hence a trip to Koreatown. Koreatown is found in the few blocks around the ever so famous, Empire State Building. After a bottle of wine in our hotel room,  and a plate of cheese, salami and prosciutto at Il Buco on Bond Street, we headed uptown to find Kunjip Korean Restaurant. After a ten minute walk, we headed down 32nd Street and started looking for this place; needless to say it was easy to find as it was the only restaurant with a line up out the door. We got in line and were quickly offered some menus to browse. Doug, being the adventurous person that he is, decided that he wanted the "Sagol Haejang Guk" (spicy stew of ox-bone and ox-blood). Well, after asking the "maitre'd" what he thought, we heeded his warning and opted for the more user friendly "Kam Ja Tang"; pork bone and potato casserole. While in the line, we also ordered some steamed tofu, "Bo Ssam"(boiled pork belly, oysters and Kimchee) and "Oh Jing Uh Gobdol Bibimbob" (rice with cuttlefish and vegetable). We were finally seated, and quite efficiently and quickly, were served six small plates with Kimchee, pickled zuchinni, pickled tofu, turnip, hot sauce and Korean condiments. We waited anxiously for our dinner, and when it finally arrived, we thought that we would never get through the grotesque amount of food! But, after several glasses of Soju (a rice alcohol similar in taste to vodka) and some heavy breathing we managed to make a fairly large dent in our meal. Finally, I tapped out and told Doug that we needed to walk off the feast. So off we went, waddling away into the busy New York night, with our bellies full of pork, Soju and K-town happiness.

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TAGS: New York City, Koreatown, kimchee, Kunjip Korean restaurant, Korean food


July 20, 2009

It Was So Nice, We Had To Go Twice - NYC Day 2

by Renee Lavallee in Events


[/caption] I have never been a die hard fan or follower of the "celebrity chef', but I was very curious to try out Mario Batali's two Spanish resto's in New York's Grammercy Park. After a full day of walking over the Brooklyn Bridge and eating various forms of street meat, we ventured back up to our  midtown hotel to shower up and figure out our evening game plan. Bar Jamon was the first place I wanted to check out, but they did not take reservations, and Casa Mono, located right next door, had a booking cut off that we had missed. So, Doug & I decided to take are chances and head downtown towards Union Square and find these little "boites". Along the way we met up with another "Haligonian", Dave Kirby, and took him along on our adventure.

We arrived at Casa Mono around 8pm, and were very surprised to hear that they could fit us in with only a twenty minute wait! Woo-hoo, we had hit the jackpot! Better yet, the hostess told us that we could head next door to Bar Jamon and have some drinks while we waited. Over we went and walked into a tiny space that had two long wooden communal tables and a small marble topped stand-up bar. The wine list was extensive including a large choice of Sherries, but we opted for a cool and sparkly bottle of their house cava - Cava Mono. After taking in the small, vibrant space and drinking our Cava, we were called next door. I was sad to leave this gem, as I was dying to try some of the anchovy stuffed olives and Jamón Iberico, but I knew that a culinary adventure awaited me next door. We were seated tightly amidst a few of the dozen or so tables in the restaurant. There was a small bar that ran the length of the room and over looked the tiny open kitchen. Dave and Doug decided to leave the ordering to me, so I chose six items to share: Charcuterie Di Casa with Black Truffles, Cana de Cabra (goat's cheese) with Fig, Pig's Feet Croquettas with Green Tomato, Calamares Fritto, Tripe with Chickpeas and Blood Sausage and Sugar Snaps with chopped Marconas (Spanish almonds). The food was outstanding; every bite had popping tastes and textures. The only downside to our evening was that we had a limit of an hour and a half to eat, so we had to leave. My favorite was the tripe, as tripe and I have a very public love affair. The Cana de Cabra salad was also a huge hit at our table; the creamy goat cheese combined with the sweet figs paired beautifully with the last few drops of our cava.

I enjoyed my dinner at Casa Mono so much that when we haphazardly walked by the next day and saw a couple of empty spots at the bar, we bolted in and sat down like excited kids. This time around we had a more leisurely experience since we had time to enjoy every last morsel that I ordered. We tried the following items: Razor Clams a La Plancha, Flash Fried White Anchovies, Sepia (cuttlefish) A la Plancha with Salsa Verde, Pulpo (octopus) with Grapefruit and Fennel and Manchego Cheeses (3 month, 6 month and 1 year old) accompanied with a Quince Jam. Our server paired all this with an interesting wine that neither of us had tried before, Txomin Etxaniz. A perfect choice for a warm summer afternoon, this wine reminded us of a Vino Verde and left us wanting more.

My kudos goes out to Mr. Batali, as he stayed true to Spanish cuisine, and the restaurants showed no indications of being owned and operated by a "celebrity chef"; no t-shirts with orange clogs being sold here!

2 Comments

TAGS: New York City, seafood


July 17, 2009

A New York-ing We Will Go - NYC Day 1

by Renee Lavallee in Events


Believe it or not, my husband turns thirty this weekend, and I thought that a trip to NYC for his birthday would be amazing.  So, over comes Grammy to watch the lil' ham for a few days and away we go. Watch out Big Apple, here we come to eat you!

We arrived in Manhattan and checked into our hotel, The Carlton. First off, we needed some cold beverages, so we popped into a shop to grab some Stellas and a bottle of wine.  To our dismay, six warm beers cost us $15 and our bottle of wine a whopping $30!  So, strike one for us country bumpkins in the big city! Luckily, we more than redeemed ourselves with our restaurant choice...

That evening, we had a reservation at Blue Hill Restaurant in Greenwich Village. After feeding on nothing more than horrible airport food all day, it's not surprising that we were both salivating the whole walk there.  A non-descript building housed the restaurant and we entered by going down some stairs that opened up into the dining room.  Once we were seated we decided to order some sparkling; specifically an Italian Spumante.  With drinks in our hands and visions of food on our minds, we quickly ordered with a feverish excitement.  I ordered the "Zucchini & Squash Blossom with Cured Immature Egg, Green Garlic and Purslane", the "This Morning's Farm Egg with Chanterelle and Corn", and as a main "Klaas Martens' Emmer Quinoa with Peas, Corn, Pancetta and Berkshire Pork".  Doug on the other hand, ordered "Grilled King Mackerel with Stone Barns Galisse, Dandelion Greens and Pine Nuts", "Sweet Pea and Mascarpone Ravioli with Stone Barns Bresola and Basil", and as a main" Grass Fed Lamb with Summer Beans". Oh my!  All I can say, is that every dish, every ingredient and every taste sensation, was orgasmic!  My "This Morning's Egg" was by far, the best thing I've ever put in my mouth.  Our server, Steve, was very professional and knowledgeable.  He surprised us with an extra course of their "Pastured Chicken"; a luscious, moist breast and crispy piece of thigh.  He paired it with a Barbera; outstanding!  Our mains were over the top.  My pork dish consisted of fatty belly slices with the crispy skin, as well as some braised shoulder pieces. Every item on the plate literally melted in my mouth.  At this point, I was ready to tap out, but somehow managed to save room for a cheese plate that showcased old and new world cheeses.

All I can say to sum up our experience, is that Blue Hill Restaurant blew us away and left us wanting much, much more!  Thank god we went as it has inspired me ten-fold.

4 Comments

TAGS: New York City, pork, Blue Hill Restaurant, lamb


July 13, 2009

Here We Grow!

by Renee Lavallee in Events


Zoe, Doug & I recently rented a plot in a community garden just down the street from our house.  In a perfect world, we would have an immense garden in our backyard, but unfortunately our lil' piece of swamp land here in the city makes our newly rented plot entirely necessary!  There is something to be said about growing your own food; a special satisfaction that I cannot compare to anything else. I have been lucky to work in many kitchens that have relied on what grows in the garden; Les Fougeres, Peter Island and Inn At Bay Fortune.  So, when it came to planting my garden, here are a few of the essentials that I could not live without. The herbs that I need on a regular basis were the first things that we planted; basil, flat leaf parsley, cilantro, tarragon, thyme, marjoram and lemon balm.  Next came a few tomato varieties, such as roma and teardrop. Doug planted green peppers, even though I think they're evil.  Lettuces, arugula, radishes and tons of lavender rounded out our little plot. So, we shall wait and see what comes about in our little corner of the community garden. I'll keep you posted on how green my thumbs get!

1 Comment

TAGS: Inn At Bay Fortune


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